Stéphane Macquaire, Professional Hairdresser in Paris: “This is the secret to spacing out appointments between highlights”

On a Tuesday morning in Paris, the salon smells faintly of coffee and hairspray. Through the big window of rue Saint-Honoré, the sky is grey, the kind that makes blond highlights look a little too obvious. A woman in her thirties sits in Stéphane Macquaire’s chair, shoulders sunk, roots clearly darker than the rest of her hair. She sighs, almost apologizing for “letting it go too long”. Stéphane smiles, tilts her head toward the mirror, and says quietly: “Not too long at all. We can stretch this even more next time.”

She looks surprised. Most hairdressers push for more appointments, not fewer. Stéphane, a discreet reference among Parisian color addicts, seems to be playing another game entirely.

The real goal, he says, isn’t brighter blond. It’s longer peace of mind.

Why your highlights seem to “expire” faster than they should

From his chair in Paris, Stéphane sees the same pattern every week. Women come in saying, “My highlights don’t last, I have to come back every six weeks or I look awful.” The light in the salon isn’t always kind, but his answer rarely changes: the problem isn’t the highlights. It’s the way they’re placed, and the way hair is treated in between.

He watches the roots rather than the lengths. That first two centimeters of natural color tells a whole story about your last visit, your shampoos, and the way your hair grows.

A client named Claire illustrates this perfectly. When she first met Stéphane, she was coming every six weeks, budget in pieces, hair completely saturated with blond. From the back, you couldn’t even distinguish where the highlights were supposed to be. Everything was the same pale beige, flat under the neon of the metro.

Stéphane changed one simple thing: he stopped highlighting every strand. He left more of her natural base visible, especially around the nape and deeper inside the hair. Three appointments later, she was coming every three months instead of six weeks. Nobody told her, “Your roots are showing.” They said, “Your color looks really soft today.”

The logic is almost mathematical. When you cover the entire head with dense, uniform highlights, the line of demarcation at the root appears very fast. There’s no gradient, no optical trick. Dark, then light. It hits the eye immediately.

When the colorist creates a blend of natural base and light pieces, the eye no longer catches a single line. It reads movement. The roots grow, yes, but they dissolve into the rest of the color. *That’s the discreet magic that can win you four extra weeks between appointments without touching a single product formula.*

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The method Stéphane uses to stretch time between appointments

The “secret” that Stéphane repeats to his Parisian clientele is deceptively simple: highlights should never fight with your natural color. They should lean on it. He starts by studying the way hair falls when you don’t style it, the way it separates when you tuck it behind your ear or push it back with your sunglasses.

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Then he places lighter strands exactly where the sun would naturally hit: the hairline around the face, the top layer, a few pieces in the lengths. He leaves little shadows beneath. Those shadows are what buys you extra weeks of grace.

There’s also what happens once you leave the salon. Aggressive shampoos, too-hot water, daily flat ironing – all of that accelerates the fading and roughens the cuticle. Then the highlights look dull, roots look harsher, and you feel “due” for an appointment long before you actually are.

We’ve all been there, that moment when you catch your reflection in the elevator and decide, out of nowhere, “I need to book my colorist tomorrow.” That thought is rarely born from reality. It’s born from how tired, dry hair reflects the light.

Stéphane insists on two rituals that sound boring, but change everything between visits:

  • Use a gentle, color-safe shampoo and cool-ish water, not boiling hot.
  • Add a light nourishing mask once a week, no multi-step spa routine needed.

Let’s be honest: nobody really does this every single day. Yet consistency, even imperfect, slows down the “old highlight” effect. When the hair fiber stays smooth, the contrast between roots and lengths diminishes. That’s when you realize you can actually push your next appointment by a week… then two… then sometimes an entire month.

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What Stéphane tells clients who can’t stand their roots

In the salon, the conversation often shifts from hair to psychology. Some clients panic as soon as two millimeters of darker root appear. They see it as neglect, as if they’d “let themselves go”. Stéphane gently reframes this. He explains that roots are not the enemy. A soft shadow at the base makes the blond look more expensive, more Parisian, less “fresh from the salon”.

He’ll sometimes suggest a gloss or toner instead of a full highlight session, just to tweak the tone and bring shine back. Ten minutes of work instead of three hours in foil.

The mistake he sees most often? Trying to “fix” everything at home. Purple shampoo every wash, DIY lightener on the front strands, over-brushing to “blend” the roots. The result is almost always the same: breakage at the hairline, yellowish lengths, and a desperate emergency appointment.

His advice is calmer, almost parental. If you feel tempted to attack your roots yourself, wait 48 hours. Tie your hair in a low bun, use a bit of styling cream, and observe how you feel. Very often, the drama fades. The roots are still there, but your brain has turned the volume down.

“Spacing appointments isn’t about doing less,” Stéphane says, fingers moving quickly through a section of hair. “It’s about doing better, at the right moment. I don’t want my clients to live in the fear of their mirror. I want them to feel they can forget their hair… and still be themselves.”

Around that philosophy, he repeats the same practical checklist to new clients:

  • Ask for dimension, not full coverage
  • Accept a hint of root shade as part of the look
  • Protect your lengths more than your color formula
  • Book toners or glosses between big highlight sessions
  • Talk honestly about your budget and ideal frequency

These small decisions shift the power dynamic. You’re no longer a prisoner of an eight-week schedule. You become the one choosing when the salon truly fits into your life.

Living with your highlights instead of chasing them

Something quiet happens when you stop treating highlights like an emergency. The calendar breathes. Salon visits become a moment you look forward to, not an obligation you squeeze in between two meetings. Your reflection starts to feel more like you, less like a version that exists only on the day you step out of the hairdresser.

In Paris, Stéphane has seen clients transform just by spacing out their appointments. They stop obsessing over every shadow at the root. They invest in one good mask instead of three unnecessary color corrections. They use their money, and their time, differently.

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This doesn’t mean giving up on the pleasure of fresh highlights or pretending that roots don’t exist. It means playing with reality: your hair grows at its own rhythm, your lifestyle has limits, your patience too. Between those three truths, a smart color strategy can save you hours under foil and a lot of anxiety in front of the bathroom mirror.

You might even discover that the moment you feel “overdue” comes much later than you thought. And that a well-placed highlight, done by someone who respects your natural color, can be one of the rare luxuries that gives you back time instead of taking it away.

Key point Detail Value for the reader
Dimensional placement Leaving natural shadows under and between highlights Roots appear softer, so appointments can be spaced out
Gentle at-home care Color-safe shampoo, cooler water, weekly nourishing mask Highlights stay shiny longer, reducing the “urgent” salon feeling
Strategic salon visits Toners and glosses between big highlight sessions Better budget control and more flexible timing for appointments

FAQ:

  • How often does Stéphane recommend getting highlights in Paris?For most clients, Stéphane aims for every 10 to 14 weeks, depending on how fast the hair grows and how strong the contrast is with the natural base. Some manage twice a year once the placement is optimized.
  • What’s the difference between highlights and balayage for spacing appointments?Balayage is usually softer and more blended, which naturally helps stretch the time between visits. Well-done highlights with depth and shadow can achieve a similar result, the key is the transition, not just the technique name.
  • Can I stretch my appointments if I have white hair coming in?Yes, but the strategy changes. Stéphane often mixes very fine highlights with lowlights close to your natural shade, so the white regrowth blends better and looks less like a sharp line at the root.
  • Do purple shampoos really help keep highlights fresh?They help control brassiness, but used too often they dry the hair and can make the blond look dull. Stéphane suggests using them once a week or even less, and always following with hydration.
  • What should I ask my hairdresser if I want to space my appointments like this?Tell them you want a dimensional blond that grows out softly, with visible natural depth and fewer, more strategic highlight placements. Mention that your goal is to come less often while still feeling polished.

Originally posted 2026-03-06 03:14:06.

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