The departure of star pastry chef François Perret has not left a void, but triggered a strategic reset: instead of a single successor, the Ritz Paris is betting on a duo of homegrown talents to define its next sweet chapter.
A new pastry era built on two pairs of hands
For years, the Ritz’s entire dessert identity was closely tied to one name: François Perret. With his exit at the end of August, the iconic Place Vendôme hotel faced a delicate question: who could possibly follow him?
Rather than appoint a lone heir to the pastry throne, the management chose a different model. From 1 January, the sweet side of the hotel is officially split into two areas of responsibility, each led by a chef who already knows the house from the inside.
The Ritz is turning the page on the era of the solitary star chef and embracing a more collective, resilient pastry structure.
This dual leadership aims to maintain the hotel’s extremely high standards, while allowing more creativity and flexibility in how desserts are designed, produced and served across restaurants, bars and boutiques.
Olivier Lainé, the discreet teacher stepping into the spotlight
The main kitchens of the palace – from the gastronomic restaurant L’Espadon to Bar Vendôme, afternoon tea and breakfast service – will now be overseen by a familiar but long understated figure: Olivier Lainé.
For the past seven years, Lainé has been shaping the next generation of pastry chefs at the École Ritz Escoffier, the in-house culinary school. Far from social media buzz, he has been at the heart of the hotel’s technical excellence and transmission of know‑how.
A career rooted in French rigour
Lainé graduated in 2002 before honing his skills in Brittany, then joining the team behind the intricate entremets of Café Pouchkine, a brand known for Franco-Russian finesse.
He later became sous-chef pâtissier at the Shangri-La Paris, another luxury address where precision, timing and presentation are non‑negotiable. This background means he is already fluent in the demanding rhythm of Parisian grand hotels.
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By promoting Lainé, the Ritz is choosing continuity: a chef already soaked in the DNA of Place Vendôme rather than an external star.
Internally, his appointment is seen as a way to keep the soul of the house intact while giving more room to technical research and thoughtful reinterpretation of classics.
Tradition with a modern twist on the plate
Lainé’s style leans on strong foundations. He likes starting from established French dessert standards – think millefeuille, tart, soufflé or baba – and then nudging them towards the present day.
Texture is central to his approach. He carefully layers crisp, soft and melting elements to keep every bite alive from the first spoonful to the last.
The focus is on the meeting of flavour and texture: not just how a dessert tastes, but how it breaks, melts and lingers.
For guests, that likely means more technically exact compositions that remain readable and comforting. Expect clear forms, recognisable flavours like vanilla, praline or citrus, but combined with subtle twists in temperature, layering or seasoning.
- Crisp components: wafer, feuilletine, caramelised puff pastry
- Soft elements: sponge, biscuit, light mousses
- Melting touches: creams, sauces, ganaches, sorbets
This approach lets the Ritz maintain its aura of classic French luxury while still giving regulars something new to talk about with each visit.
Joris Theysset takes charge of Ritz Paris Le Comptoir
While Lainé steers the palace restaurants, the retail side of the brand – the Ritz Paris Le Comptoir boutiques in the 1st and 6th arrondissements – goes to another insider: Joris Theysset.
He joined the project in 2019 as part of the founding team alongside Perret, first as his right-hand man, then as head of production from 2021. Theysset has been central to scaling up the boutique concept while keeping its artisanal feel.
From Ardèche childhood to Parisian boutiques
Originally trained in Ardèche, a region known for its chestnuts and rustic desserts, Theysset later went through Ladurée in Paris, a brand almost synonymous with French pâtisserie for international visitors.
This dual influence shapes his style: a strong attachment to comforting, nostalgic flavours, framed by the need for precise production and consistent quality demanded by a high-traffic boutique.
His goal is a “sincere” pastry – emotionally charged, rooted in childhood memories, yet produced with the discipline of a luxury house.
Since November 2025, the Ritz has officially given him freer artistic reins. One example is his festive “Sucre d’Orge” Yule log, a candy cane–inspired cake designed as both a holiday centrepiece and a personal statement.
Extending the Ritz experience beyond Place Vendôme
In his new role, Theysset is tasked with more than just designing pastries. He must protect what makes the Ritz instantly recognisable, while adapting it to takeaway formats, queues and tourists passing through Paris for only a day or two.
He often speaks about being the “guardian of creativity” at Le Comptoir. That means balancing several expectations at once:
- Keeping flavours accessible enough for an international clientele
- Ensuring products travel well and keep their structure
- Maintaining a strong visual identity for social media
- Respecting the taste and standards of the Ritz Paris brand
His creations aim to leave guests with a vivid memory, almost like a souvenir that sits between gastronomy and gift item. For many visitors, a pastry box from Le Comptoir is their only direct contact with such a legendary hotel.
Why luxury hotels are rethinking their pastry strategy
The Ritz’s decision to split pastry leadership between a palace chef and a boutique specialist reflects a broader shift in luxury hospitality.
High-end hotels now operate across several channels at once: fine dining, bar snacks, room service, afternoon tea, street-facing shops and sometimes e‑commerce. Each context has different logistical constraints, price points and audiences.
| Area | Main focus | Pastry challenge |
|---|---|---|
| Gastronomic restaurant | Plated desserts, tasting menus | Complexity and on‑the‑spot execution |
| Afternoon tea & bar | Small cakes, snacks | High volume with refined presentation |
| Boutiques | Takeaway cakes, travel-friendly items | Shelf life, transport, consistent quality |
By appointing Lainé for in‑house service and Theysset for boutiques, the Ritz aligns technical leadership with these different realities rather than forcing a single chef to be everywhere at once.
What this means for guests and pastry lovers
For regulars of the Ritz, the immediate change might not be radical. The visual codes of the palace, the famous attention to detail and the carefully staged service are staying.
Where guests may notice a difference is in nuance: slightly bolder textural contrasts in the restaurant desserts, a stronger note of nostalgia in the boutique cakes, and a clearer line between what is meant to be eaten on the spot and what is designed to be taken away.
The Perret chapter is closing, but the hotel is using the transition to refine how each sweet moment fits into the guest journey.
For pastry enthusiasts planning a trip to Paris, this setup creates two distinct experiences under the same banner: the more formal, plated approach of L’Espadon, and the more accessible, giftable treats of Le Comptoir. Both can be combined in a single day for a deeper understanding of how a grand hotel expresses its taste.
Key notions behind high-end French pâtisserie today
Several terms often come up in conversations around chefs like Lainé and Theysset, and they shape how menus are written and desserts are experienced.
“Revisiting a classic” typically means keeping the core identity of a traditional dessert – its main flavours, structure or story – while changing parts of the recipe. That might involve lightening a cream, reducing sugar, adding acidity, or reworking the format into a single-serve portion instead of a large family‑style cake.
“Texture play” is another major focus. Rather than just making something rich, chefs look for contrast. A tart may combine a crisp base, a soft almond cream, a silky custard and a slightly chewy garnish. Guests feel these different layers as they cut through the slice, which adds rhythm and prevents palate fatigue.
For travellers keen to experience this style, one practical strategy is to taste both a “classic revisited” dessert and a more seasonal creation on the same visit. It gives a clear view of how the chef respects French heritage while reacting to current trends, ingredients and techniques.
There is also a growing interest in how pastries age. Boutique items are often designed to be at their peak a few hours after purchase, while restaurant desserts are created for immediate consumption. Understanding this timeline reduces disappointment: a delicate millefeuille will rarely enjoy a long metro ride, whereas a carefully engineered cake from Le Comptoir may stay stable until evening.
With Lainé and Theysset now at the helm, the Ritz Paris becomes an instructive case study in how a historic institution can refresh its pastry identity without losing its roots, using structure, memory and texture as its key tools.
Originally posted 2026-03-10 16:21:37.